Instead, the focus is on highlighting the designers' creativity and the process behind their creations, and having fun doing it – a case in point: Irving Latimer's alter-ego, Ana Conda, hosted a drag bingo night for international guests on Thursday night. “Fashion weeks can be pretty serious – I can't imagine this being on the official schedule anywhere else,” explains Latimer, whose brand Latimer expresses masculinity through clothing. “But it's a very fun and fun experience.” [the drag performance] It also relates directly to where I come from, the origins of the brand and our approach to gender.”
Sustainability is also a key priority for the young Helsinki brand, with Vain using deadstock to create its goth-inspired designs. “It's always been a big part of our DNA. I started sewing by buying fabrics in thrift stores and creating my own silhouettes,” explains co-founder Jimi Vain. Meanwhile, Sofia Ilmonen, winner of the Hyères Sustainability Award in 2021, has partnered with Finnish company Spinnova, which produces textiles from sustainably sourced wood pulp and waste, to create modular designs that feature buttoned-up panels that can be easily altered. “The whole idea when I started was how to extend the life of a garment,” says the designer.
There's a strong focus on the environmental impact of producing the clothes, as well as promoting craftsmanship. For example, Ekross' knitwear is made in Finland, but customers will be able to buy DIY kits to knit the brand's autumn/winter 2024 designs themselves later this year. “We produce as locally as possible,” he explains, adding, “I've learned a lot about the knitting community. They're very supportive and want to try new things.”