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A record 1.65 million people visited Alaska on cruises last year, up 23% from the previous record year of 2019, with popular cruise lines also seeing double-digit growth. Most traveled via the Inside Passage, a 500-mile route that departs from Seattle or Vancouver and reaches Juneau. The Inside Passage is one of the few waterways where large cruise ships sail close to massive mountains and abundant wildlife.
On a classic Inside Passage cruise, sail through calm waters filled with whales. See rainforests teeming with exotic animals, snow-capped mountains and fjords jutting thousands of feet above the ocean. Visit remote fishing villages and indigenous communities accessible only by sea or air. All this against a backdrop of luxury accommodations, fine dining and entertainment.
Alaska's $1.87 billion Alaska cruise industry is ubiquitous, with 60% of travelers arriving by ship. But packed cruise ships and run-of-the-mill tours aren't the only way to experience this rugged North American frontier. Travelers with a DIY and adventurous spirit can create their own Inside Passage itinerary based around local ferry services.
Tour the Inside Passage by ferry
The ferry system began in the early 1960s as a way for Canada and the United States to connect their coastal communities along the Inside Passage. The Canadian government built the BC Ferry System. The Alaska government built the Alaska Marine Highway System.
Today, people use the ferries to travel to the furthest destinations of the Inside Passage. Both ships have staterooms with private bathrooms. Passengers can choose between comfortable indoor and outdoor seating with the same views as cruise ships. All ships have cafeterias where hot meals are available. Drivers and RVers can bring their own vehicles, and most pets are welcome. Some Inside Passage ferries can carry as many as 2,000 passengers and even have movie theaters.
Trips vary in length. Depending on your embarkation point and final destination, you'll spend between one and three nights on board. Unlike a cruise, passengers can only disembark at the port listed on their ticket; however, the captain will make announcements of major tourist attractions and animal sightings.
Departures are limited to once a week, and travelers must book online in advance as tickets sell out, especially for vehicles. Also, Wi-Fi is very limited, so plan your digital savings.
The Canadian and US systems connect in Prince Rupert, British Columbia. But the route won't operate in 2024 and has no timetable for when it will reopen. The Alaska Marine Highway website cites “international service restrictions and crew shortages.” The problem is that Alaska's fleet is aging and doesn't meet the Canadian government's standards for entering the port of Prince Rupert.
Where can I board the Inside Passage Ferry?
Ferries between Canada and the United States offer a more scenic journey than your typical cruise trip.
The Canadian side of the Inside Passage opens up to some of British Columbia's most remote locations. The journey begins at Bear Cove, a port in Port Hardy on North Vancouver Island. Most people arrive by ferry from Vancouver and enjoy a scenic drive along the coast along Highway 19. From First Nations sites and quirky museums to wildlife viewing and hiking, the drive to the ferry is an experience in itself.
It's a 16-hour, overnight journey from Bear Cove through the Inside Passage to Prince Rupert, an old salmon canning town at the northern tip of British Columbia. It's a great place to wander the quaint village streets and plan other trips. Enjoy hiking, kayaking, exploring Pike Island, and archaeological tours of prehistoric settlements.
Possible stops on the way to Prince Rupert are the small First Nations communities of Bella Bella or Klemtu in the Great Bear Rainforest. Both are gateways to paddling, diving, wildlife watching and other backcountry experiences. Klemtu is the jumping off point for sailing adventures to the remote archipelago of Haida Gwaii and Bella Coola, a village in the foothills of the inland mountains.
The Alaska Marine Highway covers a much larger area: the Inside Passage route runs from Bellingham, Washington, to the state capital, Juneau, in two days and three nights.
From Juneau, ferry trips take you to several smaller, interesting outposts for day trips. In Sitka, you can learn about Russian and Native American history while visiting pioneer and bear refuges. Haines, known as the adventure capital of Alaska, is home to more than 400 bald eagles and has mountainous terrain where hiking, kayaking and fishing are a part of life. Skagway, an hour from Haines, is the starting point for the popular 8-hour, 25-mile White Pass Scenic Railroad.
Gustavo is a 4-6 hour ferry ride or 30 minute seaplane ride from Juneau. As the closest town with lodging to Glacier Bay National Park, it's the most popular getaway from Juneau. From Gustavo, you can work with the National Park Service and other outfitters to plan your visit.
Though it has grown in popularity in recent years, many commercial cruises do not offer tours to Glacier Bay, and the park only allows two commercial ships into port per day: Princess Cruises, Holland America, Norwegian Cruise Line, Carnival, Seabourn Cruises, Viking Cruises and Royal Caribbean Cruises all have contracts with the park.
En route to Juneau, the ferry stops at many of the same ports as a typical Inside Passage cruise. In Ketchikan, just 38 hours from Bellingham, you can hike through a temperate rainforest or hop on a bush plane for a low-flying flight above the 3,000-foot walls of Misty Fjords National Monument.
Six hours from Ketchikan, near Wrangell, you can see the ancient carvings at Petroglyph Bear State Historic Site and take a jet boat trip up the Stikine River to see the dramatic snow-capped mountains beyond. A stop in Petersburg begins an epic 2-day kayaking tour to LeConte Glacier, 20 miles away.
Many commercial cruises offer tours into the wilderness of British Columbia and Alaska, and ferries offer travelers more freedom and a springboard for further exploration.
Cost and Value
Comparing the cost of a ferry versus a cruise can be difficult because many of the costs of a cruise aren't clearly stated in the initial offer. Cabins on large commercial ships can start at $100 per night, but that doesn't usually include meals, alcohol, or sightseeing tours, which can cost hundreds of dollars per person per day. Most travelers should expect to budget between $3,000 and $5,000 per person for an average seven-night Alaska cruise.
Ferries, on the other hand, are easier to calculate but far from cheap: Prices vary depending on the port, the size of your car, and the cabin you choose. For example, a trip from Bellingham to Juneau will cost around $600 for one person in a cabin, but you'll need to pay an extra $1,116 to bring an SUV.
Passengers can bring their own food or eat in the cafeteria, which charges between $10 and $25 per meal. Once ashore, consider accommodations, guides, and meals.
Get more adventurous with Inside Passage Ferries
Ferries are usually cheaper, but the appeal isn't the big savings, it's more about connecting with the real backcountry, traveling closer to the people and enjoying its bounty for longer – or at least a more authentic experience than a cruise port.
This article was produced by Media Decision and distributed by Wealth of Geeks.