Thorough his catering/fine dining company 2 Brothers 1 Love, chef David Hargrove explores cuisine that builds upon contemporary Creole flavors with notes of the Caribbean and African roots. Hargrove and partner chef Teon Reid are known for their Caribbean-style boil.
How he learned “I’m from Louisiana. I’ve been eating crawfish my whole life. I learned from family outings… tricks of different aunts and uncles and cousins… to compile my own recipe. Through [Teon Reid who hails from Jamaica], we have this Caribbean side which is nice – I know it’s authentic.”
Must-haves “My favorite pot. My favorite paddle. My favorite dry herbs/fresh herbs. Citrus on deck, just to brighten it up a bit, round it out a bit. Lots of different spices. Sometimes I try to mimic some of the Vietnamese flavors I’ve tasted on the Westbank.”
Favorite sides “We add sweet potatoes, sometimes white or red yam as well, regular red potatoes, corn, and smoked sausage (we like Double D – it has good flavor). I always like to do something on the side, like jerk chicken with rice and peas (red beans) because not everyone eats crawfish. Newcomers can’t go through more than a pound or two.”
A Caribbean twist “Our Caribbean boil is made with sausage, potatoes, and corn, but we add sweet potato or pineapple chunks, and instead of Creole spice, we swap Caribbean jerk seasoning, habanero pepper or bonnet pepper, allspice, some green pepper for an earthy taste. We do it with crawfish, shrimp, crabs… it’s popular and delicious.”
Favorite boil spot “A concrete slabbed area, like the back of a venue. Someplace you can have live music in one corner – a big open space.”
Favorite beverage accompaniment “Miller High Life. A solid beer. Paradise Park. Ice cold.”
On navigating crawfish scarcity “Shrimp are amazing, especially brackish water Gulf shrimp. Crabs too. We just had a bunch of Dungeness crabs.”
Larry Thompson, Jr., a.k.a. Mr. Shrimp, has become a fixture on the local seafood scene, supplying individuals and restaurants with fresh and prepared seafood. In late 2023, Thompson opened “Mr. Shrimp’s Kitchen” at the Riverwalk Outlets food court. There he serves up specialties like shrimp Alfredo with fried catfish and of course, boiled seafood, cooked with his “Throw It in the Pot” seasoning (also available for purchase). According to Thompson, on days when he’s offered boiled crawfish, “it went crazy. People are like, ‘When are you gonna” do it again?’ Even with the crawfish being expensive like they are right now, they’re still all over it.”
How he learned Thompson was self-taught. “I really was afraid to cook them… It took me a while to master the crawfish because they’re so unique, in the hard shell, to get the flavor inside of them. So, I tried all kinds of techniques, and the flavor wasn’t in there, and then one day, it just hit… and has been consistent ever since. It’s a real technique to get that seasoning inside that crawfish. I use [‘Throw It in the Pot’] for everything. The only thing different is I make it a little spicier because it’s crawfish.”
The gear “A good sturdy pot and a good sturdy spoon that ain’t gonna” melt on you as soon as you put it into the pot… I’m from the old school. I’m gonna” use the basket, pull it out. And people adore you doing it that traditional way.”
The approach “When you’re boiling crawfish, you have to first purge them. If you don’t purge them, they’re going to taste gritty, like you just grabbed them out of the water. Secondly, just watching them in the pot. A lot of people think once they come to a boil, it’s finished. No, you have to properly watch them in that pot. And the soaking process is key. You have to soak them for enough time after you boil them for flavor, texture, everything. You literally ought to be able to pinch the end of that tail and they come out. If you’re fighting with it, it’s not a good crawfish boil.
At the end of the day a crawfish boil is what you put in it… and you don’t throw everything in the pot together. You cook everything separately because some things cook quicker than others. [Otherwise] what you’re gonna’ get is – a.) something’s gonna’ overcook, b.) something’s gonna’ taste like another item and c.) everything’s gonna’ taste like the sausage… Everything should have its own unique taste.”
The sides “Crawfish, potatoes and corn are the go-to. I’m from the old school. Sausage and turkey necks – all that came down the line. Shrimp came because you couldn’t get crawfish. If I use any sausage, it’s Double D sausage. The texture – it holds in the boil as opposed to breaking loose.”
The source “I was blessed to have crawfish in December… That’s the great part of being connected with great people is that they contact me – I’m high on the list for live Louisiana crawfish. A lot of my vendors come from the Breaux Bridge or Lafayette area – they get the most crawfish.”
Favorite boil spot “Next to some water! That’s why I love being in the Riverwalk – you get the best of both worlds [re: outdoor patio seating overlooking the river]. You take it outside and get that scenery… When you’re out there, you’re on a vacation and you’re at home.”
Favorite beverage accompaniment “You’ve got to have your cold beer. It’s a New Orleans culture thing. I’m a Heineken drinker. At the events that I do, Michelob Ultra is one, Budweiser is the top beer. Daiquiris come second. Once everybody started getting daiquiris with it, it became a thing – boiled seafood and daiquiris.”
On crawfish scarcity Mr. Shrimp recommends substituting… shrimp, of course, boiled with ‘Throw It in the Pot’ seasoning.
Chef Marcus Jacobs, who built his seafood bonafides at Herbsaint and the former Marjie’s Grill and Seafood Sally’s, now brings them to Porgy’s Seafood Market (with partners Caitlin Carney, Dana Honn and Christina do Carmo Honn). The sustainable Mid-City market/eatery (located in the former site of Bevi Seafood) plans to sell hot boiled crawfish, cater offsite boils, and supply permitting, take orders for live crawfish (with a couple of days’ notice).
How he learned “By watching. And eating. I’m not from here so didn’t grow up eating boiled crawfish, but working at Herbsaint, we would have staff crawfish boils a lot… then going to friends’ houses and learning as we go. “
Must-haves “A powerful burner of any type, even a single stand thing you get at the checkout at Rouses – something that can bump out the BTUs. A lot of citrus in the pot – that’s a big thing for me – lemon, orange, good bit of garlic. We have a boil spice we sell at Porgy’s, a custom blend with a lot of dried citrus peels and spice.”
Favorite sides “Potatoes and mushrooms are a have-to-have. I don’t go wild on the sides. I like to just eat a bunch of crawfish. In a perfect world, I’m boiling the sides completely separate because I want my crawfish to taste like crawfish, not Brussels sprouts… I will have potatoes to fill me up, but I really beeline for the bugs.”
The source “We are big rice field crawfish people. I prefer Breaux Bridge or Lafayette crawfish to spillway wild stuff. We work with people who work with farmers from western Louisiana to bring stuff straight to us.”
Favorite boil spot “I’d say my house, but I don’t like cleaning up afterwards. I like doing it at friends’ houses, where I can show up and cook and it’s more of a collective effort. Also renting out shelters at City Park – a lovely atmosphere under the oaks. Anywhere that’s outside where you can get a water hookup.”
Favorite beverage accompaniment “Definitely cold, cheap beer – something in the Budweiser/High Life gamut – but very, very cold.”
On crawfish scarcity “For me, especially right now, it’s understanding that every season is different and even though some of the product is farmed, it is at the whim of Mother Nature. Probably prices will be a little higher, but we need to make sure they’re around for next year and the following year. We’re so used to having these long crawfish seasons that people are ready to go.”
In addition to experience in the kitchens of Sylvain and Saba, the chef de cuisine for Audubon Clubhouse by Dickie Brennan & Co. honed her seafood cooking skills on low-country boils in her native South Carolina – solid preparation for boiling Louisiana crawfish.
How she learned “I grew up on low country boils (or Beaufort stew). It doesn’t change from house to house – they all have potatoes, sausage, corn, Old Bay, and beer. Shrimp cooks quickly, so it’s what you add at the end – you’re able to do the whole thing in an hour or so. New Orleans was a big change. I learned ‘if the crawfish boil starts at 2:00, the first drop comes at 3:30.’ It takes all day. My first job here was at Sylvain. On Mardi Gras day they would do a companywide crawfish boil. It was my first look at the background of doing a boil… The next year, I decided to do my first.”
Must-haves “I saw in a lot of videos that people will add ice to the pot or use Cajun cookers that cool the outside quickly. It’s important to drop the temperature, so I take empty gallon milk jugs, fill them with water, and freeze them so I have like six of those to use for each drop instead of using ice. For ingredients: always oranges, lemon, onion, celery, garlic – the classics. Someone told me once to use lemon concentrate – buy one little jar that will last your whole life. The trick to that is only use a capful or two – it takes the lemon flavor to next level, but too much is like Pine-Sol.
The approach “Hosting is hard, so I do as much as I can the day before. Chop your sausage, cut your onions and citrus in half. Purge the crawfish and put them in a big cooler on ice – they’ll be fine. Try to plan ahead and to delegate – somebody else knows how to clean corn, etc. As that water is coming up and you’re seasoning it, taste the water and your poaching liquid. You can’t go back once you do that first drop. That’s when you really figure it out. Don’t waste your first drop. People say the second drop is the best, but it doesn’t have to be.”
The sides “Whole garlic, mushrooms, artichoke hearts, Brussels sprouts. I’m a people pleaser to a point, but I prefer a spicy crawfish boil. One thing I will do to do [please] the masses is get a spicy and not-spicy andouille. I’ll cut all the spicy sausage on the bias and others with a straight edge so people can see what’s not spicy. I also like an array of dips, pimento cheese… something not too spicy because crawfish will be spicy.”
Favorite boil spot “A backyard or side yard… But close enough to your kitchen and close to a hose – the good New Orleans hose water is part of the recipe.”
Favorite beverage accompaniment “Paradise Park or Abita Amber. Or a daiquiri – no one ever complains when someone shows up with a gallon of strawberry daiquiris.”
On navigating crawfish scarcity “I grew up doing shrimp boils, and the similarities are astounding. Crawfish boils really come down to the atmosphere. Yes, crawfish are delicious. But what you’re really trying to do is create an environment and party and reason to gather. Getting those shrimp is also a great way to support local fisherman.”
As the operations manager for the Southern Food and Beverage Museum (SoFAB), Camille Staub-Morgan brings experience honed at spots including Willa Jean and Cochon and as co-owner of catering business Luncheon, plus a lifetime of backyard boils. Staub-Morgan is hoping to incorporate crawfish boils into SoFAB’s programming this spring.
How she learned “I grew up in Baton Rouge and New Orleans, and we boiled at home all the time. I worked for a restaurant in Baton Rouge as my first job out of culinary school, Sammy’s Grill, where we did crawfish boils every spring. The freestyle version of what I do comes from my dad. The more structured, ‘same way every time’ boil I learned from Sammy’s.”
Must-haves “Obviously, a pot that’s big enough (the pot I use is 160-qt, which fits two small sacks or 1.5 medium-sized sacks). My dad always gets way too much crawfish in one small pot. I grew up using a dinky wooden paddle – I love someone’s paw-paw’s wooden paddle. The other thing is your propane jet – you need to have one with at least three jet burners. Some people use old ones with two jets, and you’ll be there for hours trying to get your water to boil. I grew up using Louisiana boil powder, and I’m tried-and-true with that. I also add the Zatarain’s boil-in-a-bag packets that have the whole seeds and seasonings in them [because I’ve found the Louisiana boil packets bust open].”
The approach “One thing we do that’s kind of controversial – I put butter in mine. Once they’re done boiling, cut off the tanks and let them soak. Throw butter in. Add ice to cool them down, shock things, and send all that juice into the heads of the crawfish. Let them sit longer to soak up the flavor, and that flavor goes to the heads, and you get this silky delicious crawfish juice. For me, the head juice is superior to the actual tail meat.”
Favorite side “My mom does this phenomenal celery salad that we always make on the side because it’s this lovely cool down for your mouth. You also have to have potatoes, corn, mushrooms, and sausage. For Luncheon we did ‘the Luncheon fixings’: pineapple and sweet potato. We would also do this lovely thing another chef friend of ours told us about: take the garlic from your boil, mix it with Country Crock (because it’s salty and always spreadable), and dip your potatoes in it.”
Favorite boil spot “My parents’ backyard. It’s the one place I don’t actually have to boil.”
Favorite beverage accompaniment “Always a Modelo.”
As the veteran owner of Southern Hospitality Catering, John Rowland has a team of “really amazing chefs” that cover most of the cooking nowadays. But he still handles the crawfish boils himself: “It’s my passion.”
How he learned “When I was young, even before high school, a couple of my friends and I would go out to New Orleans East, off I-10, and drop these little crawfish traps and get our own. The first few times we did it, they were terrible, then we kind of figured it out.”
The gear “For the last decade, I have a guy who makes these lightweight aluminum tanks for me. They’re on wheels, and you put them in the van and go… [but] you can go to Sam’s Club or any hardware store and buy a pot with a basket. The pots have gotten a lot better – much lighter weight. They come in varying sizes, big enough to put a whole sack and fixings in it.”
The approach “I have stuck with the same recipe and been very successful with it. I am a big fan of Zatarain’s. I do both dry and liquid Zatarain’s plus other ingredients like hot sauce, lemon juice… My only change is if people want it really spicy, I kick up the heat [with more liquid boil] but still use my recipe.”
Favorite sides “We’ll do jambalaya and usually a Caesar salad so there are some greens. In the crawfish: corn, potatoes, sausage. For sausage, I exclusively use Creole Country. Most of the sausages you put in crawfish boil get really oily and make the water look kind of weird, but Creole Country is nice and pure and is really good sausage. A lot of artichokes, Brussels sprouts. We’ve had pineapple in there. Mushrooms are my favorite. I also do something most people don’t do – I put whole chickens in mine. I put them in lingerie bags, and they don’t come apart. They come out really, really good. A lot of times I’ll use the leftover chicken to make a spicy, tasty chicken salad.”
The source “I have a crawfish supplier out of Breaux Bridge I’ve used forever… [This season] it may be where we have to source crawfish from other farmers that we haven’t in the past.”
Favorite boil spot “We’re the exclusive boilers for The Tchoup Yard, and we like doing boils over there. I’ve done a lot of boils at the Butterfly at Audubon Park. For a lot of boils, people have us do it here, put [the crawfish] in insulated containers so they stay hot, then bring them onsite.”
Favorite beverage accompaniment “Definitely beer. We do a lot of Abita or Miller Lite kegs with boils. As long as it’s not dark beer. My personal preference is Holy Roller [by Urban South].”
On crawfish scarcity “In my previous experience, when they have been expensive or scarce, people still put out the money to do it. They might downscale, but they are such a staple that people will sacrifice a lot to have crawfish.”
2024 season finds mudbugs in short supply
The rumblings started late last year, dire predictions of an unprecedented crawfish shortage in the upcoming season. Typically, southeast Louisiana revelers would be boiling early season bugs throughout the Carnival season right into the peak of spring. But thanks to last year’s brutally hot, dry weather followed by winter cold, crawfish have been scarce, and the forecast from local experts ranges from catastrophic to disappointingly delayed. Prices at press time averaged upwards of $10/lb for live crawfish, with folks hoping for a greater yield (and lower prices) in the coming weeks. The Crawfish App (yes, there’s an app) tracks availability and prices for live and boiled crawfish in the area. Otherwise, shrimp and crab boils will have to stand in for many locals as we look ahead to better crustacean conditions next season.
Fun & Games: Even the smallest cook can get in on the action with the Lil’ Bit Crawfish Boil Set from Fleurty Girl, fleurtygirl.net.
Take cover: Newspaper is simplest, but kraft or butcher paper or plastic tablecloths also set the table for a great boil. Crawfish Table Cover, lacrawfish.com; Crawfish Kraft Paper Table Roll, lacrawfish.com
Boiling gloves: Protect your hands from hot pots. Heavily Insulated Boiling Gloves, Acadia Crawfish
Headgear: Dirty Coast’s “Make Crawfish $1.97/lb. Again” hat is a sentiment we can all get behind, dirtycoast.com
Dishing it out: Why reinvent the wheel? You can’t go wrong with a classic, reusable plastic tray.
No more muddy-bugs: Wash your crawfish with a big ice chest or plastic tub and hose or take it up a notch with Cowboy’s Crawfish Washer, lacrawfish.com
Seersucker style: Be the best dressed at the boil with these crawfish embroidered, flat front seersucker shorts in classic blue from Perlis, perlis.com
Can-do: Chill your beer in high style with a canpadre from Dirty Coast. Union Justice Crawfish Canpadre by Liberty, dirtycoast.com
Paddle pro: The Boil Boss paddle has a thermometer to gauge water temperature, which can be helpful during the soaking process.
For crawbabies: Baby’s first boil will be a big hit with the kidddie crowd with this organic cotton baby bib from Nola Tawk, nolatawk.com
Wearable gear: Jazz up your backyard boil get-up with this unisex crawfish-print button down from Fleurty Girl, fleurtygirl.net.
Keeping it clean: For post-peeling hand cleaning, lemons reduce the boil smell. Some folks tout the stainless steel ‘soap’ bar, and of course, there’s a bespoke soap. Stainless Steel Soap Hand Odor Remover Bar Eliminating Smells
Clean as a whistle: No more garlicky, fishy, spicy hands with Mudbug-Be-Gone Hand Soap from Kings Hand Soap in peppermint, kingshandsoap.com
The boiling pot: Most of our experts stand by the basics – a big pot and separate lift-out basket, but an all-in-one seafood cooker combines the pot and basket with a high-powered burner in a sturdy stand.
Spice it up: Pros in the know recommend a mix of liquid concentrated and classic spice boil blends from a Louisiana favorite, such as Zatarain’s, for backyard boils.